Atlanta Appliance Air Conditioning Heating Repair and Service
Paul Ramey Appliance Repair Atlanta
Home > Atlanta Air Conditioning Repair

We repair all brands and models for air conditioning units in Atlanta. If your ac doesn't come on, doesn't cool efficiently, the compressor is getting hot or something else is wrong with the unit, just call our toll free number and we will take care of the rest. Our technicians are available 24/7 at our toll free number:


For parts only: 800-370-9281

Please note that all purchased air conditioning parts are shipped directly to you

We repair all brands in such as:



and more view all brands

Our service area includes all of Atlanta and the surrounding cities that are listed below:

Forest Grove
Forest Heights
Fort Klamath

Cascade Summit
Cedar Mill

Timberline Lodge
view the rest service areas

Since attempting air conditioning repairs can be dangerous, in many instances work should only be undertaken by a qualified professional. And certainly the money you've saved by doing your own repairs will be of little benefit if a careless accident sends you to the emergency room. For this reason, let the professional who is familiar and experienced with technical safety work on your air conditioning repairs. Call us 24/7 for professional service at our toll free number:


Central Units

The most convenient way to cool, dehumidify and filter air in a house is with a central ac rather than with individual room units, and this extra comfort is being provided to about two million more homes each year. The systems generally used distribute the conditioned air through ducts, as warm-air heating systems do, and most are combined with warm-air furnaces. The cooling units, unlike room air conditioners, are made in two separate parts: the evaporator coil fits into the plenum chamber atop the furnace, and is connected by tubing to the condenser unit. The condenser unit with its heat and noisy machinery is located outside of the house (opposite, bottom).
Nearly all warm-air furnaces are now designed for the simple addition of such cooling units. But not all warm-air systems have ductwork adequate for air conditioning, since cooling requires more and perhaps larger ducts than heating does. For summer conditioning, large quantities of cold air have to be forced up and hot air pulled out, demanding particularly to cool second-floor bedrooms not only a blower that is powerful but also ducts that can handle the substantial air flow.
Testing a thermostat
If the compressor does not run or runs continuously, check the thermostat. Unplug the power cord, pull off the ventilator knob. Remove the top screws of the control panel and loosen the panel's bottom screws so it opens. Pull off the two power-line connectors and attach a continuity tester to their terminals. With the thermostat at its warmest setting, the tester lamp should not light. Turn the knob to the coldest setting, the tester lamp should light.
Cooling a house through a furnace
In the air-conditioning system at right, installed in a forced-air heating system with only minimum modification of the existing equipment. The air flow through the ductwork (arrows) remains the same as in the winter. Hot, humid air from the house flows to the basement through the return air duct and passes through the air filter. (Because of the increased air flow required to force cold air throughout the house. check the filter monthly and, if necessary, replace it or cleanse it of dust and pollen.)
The furnace blower, reset to operate at a high speed (instructions for such adjustment, forces the filtered air across the evaporator coil. Located in the plenum chamber above the furnace. It is cooled by refrigerant from the condenser unit outside the house. Moisture condensing on the coil trickles down through a pipe to the floor drain while the cooled and dehumidified air is pushed through the air-supply ducts to the rooms above.
An A-coil for cooling
The most common evaporator coil used in a central system is a two-section design, called an A-coil from its shape which crowds the greatest amount of cooling coil into the available space. A drain pan collects the water that condenses on the coil. The pipe that empties this pan is fitted with a drain trap, partly to prevent insects from crawling up to the coil and partly to insulate the system from the warm, humid air that is in many basements.
An outdoor unit to dump the heat
Installing the condenser coil and compressor in a separate unit outdoors removes noise as well as heat. The only connections with the other parts of the system are the wires to a central thermostat and two runs of tubing one that supplies cold refrigerant liquid to an evaporator in the house, and another that brings warm refrigerant gas to be pressurized in the compressor, and then liquefied while it is releasing its heat in the condenser. Air enters the unit through louvers and absorbs heat as it passes over the condenser coils; the fan sends heated air upward.
Any air that moves can be a comfort of course. When it is moved so that hot air is replaced with cooler air dirty air with clean the comfort is further increased. Even in an air-conditioned house, fans lighten the load on the cooling mechanism to give optimum comfort for less money. For all these purposes, a permanently installed fan in attic, roof, wall or ceiling can be matched to need. Small exhaust fans remove heat, humidity, grease and odors from bathroom, kitchen or laundry. Larger fans, installed in attic or roof, take even greater advantage of the fact that hot air rises. A large attic fan (below) pulls cool air in at the bottom of a house and blows hot air out at the top. It alone will do a surprisingly effective job of cooling in a temperate climate. A roof fan (bottom) fulfills a more limited assignment: emptying hot air out of an attic and replacing it with cooler air drawn in through vents in the eaves.